Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Colombia: Of Men, Calves, And Mud

To mark calves in Colombia’s Llanos requires men to lasso the animals, to keep them down in the mud waiting for their turn to be branded, and to handle the branding iron. It’s all a game, really, full of hilarious situations.
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Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Colombia: Cowboys Marking Calves


Colombian cowboys marking calves inside a Llanos corral. Mud and water are two of the reasons why they always go barefoot. Much else was going on around in the corral. Like other men lassoing calves running wild. And it wasn’t easy to manage a camera on slippery ground while avoiding to be swept off my feet when caught by a moving lasso between cowboy and galloping calf.
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Monday, October 6, 2014

Colombia: Cowboys Herding Cattle To Corral


Cowboys of the Colombian Llanos, all of them riding barefoot as is their custom, are herding cows and calves to a Colombian  corral to be separated there. After the cows will have been returned to pasture the calves will be marked.

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Sunday, October 5, 2014

Colombia: Cowboys Lassoing Horses


As described in previous posts, rounding up hundreds of widely scattered cows that have been left alone fattening on the Llanos grass for several months is very hard on horses. So much so that such annual roundups see each cowboy exhaust four horses over a day. Though, as was also shown in my earlier posts, horse selection starts at dawn, it goes on long after the sun has risen. Here, cowboys are lassoing the ones they will use. More cowboys are arriving on horseback to pick their own.

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Saturday, October 4, 2014

Colombia: Cowboy Leading Horses To Corral


Horses following a cowboy to a corral in Colombia’s Llanos Orientales. Other cowboys there will select four of them each for the day’s work. In a giant round up, gathering widely scattered cattle, horses in constant gallop will need to be replaced for fresh ones as the day advances. 
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Friday, October 3, 2014

Colombia: Breaking A Horse


A barefoot Colombian cowboy breaking one of the four horses he will exhaust over a day to help other cowboys round up hundreds of cows and horses widely disseminated for months over their country’s vast Llanos grasslands. My previous post tells more on this.
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Thursday, October 2, 2014

Colombia: Barefoot Cowboys Of The Orinoco Grassland


Much of the year, peace reigns over Colombia’s Llanos orientales, the vast grasslands spreading east of the Andes Mountains. Cattle and horses roam freely, left alone to enjoy themselves and reproduce. At such times, few men are needed to keep the ranch going.

But when the time comes to bring the newborn calves to the corral to mark them, large numbers of freelance cowboys get hired—many of them young daredevils. All cowboys will ride barefoot. They will come with their own hammocks to be hung under a communal roof. And during the days their work will be needed they will be up at 4 a.m. to breakfast on beef ribs and black coffee.

It’s still dark when they start selecting the four horses each of them will exhaust in mad around-the-clock gallops. They are difficult horses that were never mounted before or had not been mounted for many months. The cows are equally wild. I had to photograph them from the safety of my own horse or of a tree limb.

The picture above shows two of the poncho-clad barefoot cowboys selecting, in the sparse light of a blue rainy dawn, the four horses each will need to alternate that day to do his job.

In the next few days I will post more of those cowboys’ pictures.
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Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Colombia: Cowboys Watering Horses


Horses drinking water left behind by the last rainy season in Colombia’s Llanos Orientales, the vast Orinoco Basin's grassland spreading east of the Andes Mountains. Surrounding cowboys are herding them to a corral to ready them for a cattle roundup.
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Monday, September 29, 2014

Bad Situations Can Breed Good Ones


A vaquero, or cowboy, participating in a cattle roundup in Colombia’s LlanosOrientales, the vast grasslands spreading East of the Andes Mountains.


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There is a saying in Colombia, which is that good things can come from bad ones. It’s often true. And It’s happened to me.

By 1985, living in Colombia, my wife’s country, as a freelance documentary photographer and writer, I had seen my income shrink worryingly. So much so that I considered emigrating back to the United States, where I had lived previously for 12 years. But I found it hard to throw the towel. Instead I self-published a photo book on the region I lived in, the Cauca Valley, and it was an instant best-seller. At least by Colombian standards. This pushed me to self-publish eight more books on Colombia, one a year, all of which sold well.
http://victorenglebert.photoshelter.com/gallery/My-Photo-Books/G0000dR9HYikKM1E/

In 1995, as I was ready to go to press with a new photo book, on Ecuador this time, that country got involved in a war with Peru, its economy collapsed, and book sales ended overnight, leaving me with material that had cost me dearly and would never see publication. Coincidentally, Colombia was going through financial and insecurity hell. And book stores there stopped paying me for the few books they were still selling.

Not only that, but kidnapping for ransom had become a very real threat, for myself and for my family, and many Colombians left the country for safer ones. I could no longer travel safely around Colombia. Worst of all, the color slides I mailed to American publishers in response to requests had stopped getting back to me and I was losing hundreds of my best pictures.

The reason was that the drug mafia had started using registered mail to send huge amounts of hundred dollar bills back from the U.S.  Registered mail had been the way my color slides had traveled between Colombia, the U.S., and the world. After some post office employees discovered dollars in the mail, the word went around and registered mail from the U.S. stopped being delivered. It was opened at the post offices and then thrown away—without the dollars but with my color slides.

Even if that had not happened, something else had started making my work impossible in Colombia. The last few packages that had still been returned to me came back with most of the color slides perforated. Attempting to stop the flow of cocaine, American or Colombian authorities must have passed needles through the packages to check if any white powder would stream out.

Emigration was again on the table, and this time it was impossible to avoid, even though my wife, Martha, and our two teenage sons rebelled against the idea of abandoning what had been an idyllic life. I hated the idea too, for I had been very happy there myself. And I had already lived in several countries—Belgium, where I was born and raised; Germany; the former Belgian Congo, Canada, and the U.S. But our sons, 18 and 19, spent their weekends out late at night when streets were most dangerous. If anything happened to them I would have to blame myself for it. I could not stand the thought of it. Anyway, how would I maintain our way of life without an income?

Once again, however, everything turned better after arriving in the U.S.. Jean-Pierre and Philippe went to university in Philadelphia and ended up with jobs and incomes they could not have dreamed of, had  they graduated in Colombia. And I got back in business, traveling the world again, not just Latin America. Poor Martha was the great loser. She lost her domestic help and her many friends. But like our sons, and for the sake of them, she ended up accepting the wisdom of our move.




Sunday, September 28, 2014

Ethiopia: A Back Alley Of Harar


A mysterious woman in a mysterious back alley is carrying lunch and tea to a mysterious person behind a blue door. I caught the scene in Ethiopia’s Harar, Islam’s fourth holy city and a UNESCO World Heritage.
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