Thursday, November 6, 2014

Costa Rica: Peaceful Naranjo


In the peaceful central square of Costa Rica’s Naranjo, two fountains featuring representations of children are attracting three siblings watched by their mother, sitting on a bench behind. The way to the Catholic church in the background is enhanced by natural arches.
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Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Ecuador: Quito’s San Francisco Church and Plaza

I traveled so often to Ecuador since 1971 that I sometimes lose track of the dates of some of my pictures there. It’s the case with this one, shot with a panoramic camera, which shows Quito’s San Francisco Church and Plaza. The cars’ styles should help date it, but in those days Ecuadorian drivers held on to their old cars to their last breaths, so that the picture could be 10 years younger than it appears. So it may be safe to say it was shot sometimes in the eighties.
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Sunday, November 2, 2014

Ecuador: The Lure Of A River


In Ecuador’s Guayas Province near Salitre, a teenage cowboy can’t resist a dip into the warm Vince River as a canoe just brought him across it.
    
Most travelers visiting Ecuador limit themselves, no doubt for lack of enough time, to its Andean region. The reasons are its spectacular snow-capped volcanoes, its picturesque indigenous villages and markets, and its capital Quito, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
     But Ecuador’s western lowlands and coast hide equally wonderful sights and culture. They include, from north to south, jungle villages of Indians and Afro-Americans, a colorful fishing activity, a Panama-hat-weaving industry, cattle ranches and cowboys, banana plantations, beaches and surf, and a net of rivers that periodically floods the surrounding country, transforming its whole landscape.
     There, too, is Guayaquil, Ecuador’s largest city and, under its palm trees, a world apart from Quito in appearance and culture. But it has its own charms, including the stunning four-kilometer long malecòn, or promenade, and Las Peñas, an area of the city built on a hill (Cerro Santa Ana) whose 400-year-old wooden houses have been artistically remodeled. The top of the hill gives a panoramic view of the city and Guayas River.

     The wonderful thing about Ecuador is that it’s small enough, by South American standards, to allow you to drive from Quito to the Amazon, to its most impressive Andean mountains and markets, and to the coast in only a few hours.

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Saturday, November 1, 2014

Ecuador: Blue-eyed Mestizo


Man of an Andean tribe known in Ecuador as Cholos Cuencanos, or Indians of Cuenca, the country’s third largest city. These people are cholos only in the way they dress and live. But they are really mestizos, and to me this blue-eyed man could easily pass for a European.
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Friday, October 31, 2014

Ecuador: Bringing Home The Flock At Dusk


Little indigenous girls herding their family’s sheep home at dusk near Ecuador’s Andean town of Ambato, south of Quito. The  sheep are all dragging leashes behind them.
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Thursday, October 30, 2014

Ecuador: Eating Breakfast At The Market


Hearty indigenous market breakfast at Ecuador’s Zumbahua, an Andean village in the Cotopaxi Province. The female cook is dropping a plate to be washed in  a pot of hot water on the fire.
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Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Ecuador: Starting A Cold Day On Chimborazo's High Slopes


Hiking up a high slope of Ecuador’s snow-capped Chimborazo Volcano at dawn, I surprised this indigenous man as he was ready to herd sheep to pasture from the saddle of his horse. To protect himself against the biting Andean cold he had covered his legs with sheep-skin pants. His people, whose tribe name I failed to learn, live a harsh semi-nomadic life among their sheep, sleeping in small straw huts.
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Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Colombia: Misty weekend at Ladrilleros Beach


Misty weekend at the Ladrilleros beach along Colombia’s Pacific Coast near Buenaventura. The beach is a popular with the people of hot Cali.

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Monday, October 27, 2014

Colombia: Travel On The Magdalena River


At Colombia’s Puerto Boyacá, passengers board a boat for a trip on the Magdalena River. Colombia is one of the world’s most beautiful and geographically varied countries I have had the fortune to explore. And its people, no matter their cultures and racial origins, are Latin America’s friendliest.
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Sunday, October 26, 2014

Colombia: Mompós, A Spanish Colonial City


Sleepy Mompós and its charming Spanish colonial architecture are built on an island of the mighty Magdalena River that bisects Colombia.
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Saturday, October 25, 2014

Colombia: Transporting Potatoes To Market


In Colombia, one early morning, two farmers are walking down from their cold Andean fields of El Cocuy Mountain, transporting their potatoes to the market of the eponymous village of El Cocuy, in Boyacá Department.
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Friday, October 24, 2014

Tenza, Colombia, Where Conversing In The Middle Of The Road Poses No Risks


Market day in Tenza, a small town in Colombia’s Boyacá Department, has brought to a corner of the central square people with baskets to sell and stories to share.
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Thursday, October 23, 2014

Colombia: Boyacá Misty Dawn



Under the mist of dawn, a path runs through pastures near Paipa, in Colombia’s Boyacá Department. A bewildered cow seems to wonder what a photographer is doing there at that hour.
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Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Colombia: A Picturesque Boyacá Village

At sunrise, under Colombia’s snowcapped El Cocuy Mountain, in the Andean Boyacá Department, the cold village of El Cocuy comes to life.
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Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Indonesia: Harrowing A Rice Field


Helped by water buffaloes,Toraja men and boys of Indonesia's Sulawesi Island harrow a rice field. The men and boys in front pull the water buffaloes while the men behind keep the harrows deep into the soil (c) 1968.
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Monday, October 20, 2014

Indonesia: Driving Muddied Water Buffaloes To Water



Moving through rice fields, this little Toraja girl of Indonesia’s Sulawesi island is driving her family’s muddied water buffaloes to water for a scrubbing. ©1968.
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Friday, October 17, 2014

Indonesia: Harrowing Rice Field


Helped by the power of a water buffalo, Toraja boys are harrowing a rice field in Indonesia’s Sulawesi Island. Rice is already growing in fields behind them. © 1968.
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Indonesia: Washing Muddy Water Buffaloes


Boys washing the mud off their family’s water buffaloes in a pond near Makassar, in Indonesia’s Sulawesi Island © 1968.
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Thursday, October 16, 2014

Indonesia: Toraja Elder


Toraja elder, of Indonesia’s Sulawesi Island, mourning a death at a village funeral 
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Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Indonesia: How The Toraja Carry Small Animals


1968 photo of a Toraja man of Indonesia’s Sulawesi Island carrying a piglet like a suitcase.
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Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Indonesia: Transplanting Rice


1968 photo of a Toraja woman and her daughters transplanting rice in Indonesia’s Sulawesi Island.
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Monday, October 13, 2014

Malaysia: Kadazan Boys Riding Water Buffaloes


Lingering along the way to give their families’ water buffaloes a chance to browse, Kadazan boys are riding to a pond where they will wash their animals. The idyllic scene took place in 1968 near Papar, Sabah, a Malaysian part of Borneo.
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Sunday, October 12, 2014

Two Ways To Climb A Coconut Tree




Near Legazpi, in the Philippines’ Luzon Island, this man climbed a coconut tree depending only on his strong leg muscles to hug the tree as they pushed himself upward.


Sustained by a liana, a Baka pygmy near M’baki, Central African Republic, is climbing a coconut tree. He uses the ax hooked to his left shoulder to cut steps in the tree as he climbs it.
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Saturday, October 11, 2014

Colombia: Not Every Moment Of A Cowboy’s Life Is Hectic

Hereafter are a few more Colombian cowboys images.
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Pulling a raincoat from a saddle as rain starts falling.


Riding to work through the Llanos’ immensity. Besides the Sahara and Patagonia, few other places on earth have made me enjoy freedom as much as here. 


Reviewing cattle with the boss.


A quiet break from horses and cows. 


Filling a cup of cool drinking water.


Giant barbecue for carnivorous cowboys.


Cowboys bedroom.

Friday, October 10, 2014

Colombia: Stoicism Of A Barefoot Cowboy And His Horse


In Colombia’s Llanos Orientales a barefoot cowboy and his horse remain immobile under a downpour as they keep watch over a herd of zebus. Barefoot riding defines all Llanos cowboys.
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Thursday, October 9, 2014

Colombia: Cowboys Sitting By A Fire


Cowboys of Colombia’s Llanos resting by a fire while it’s heating their branding irons.
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Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Colombia: Of Men, Calves, And Mud

To mark calves in Colombia’s Llanos requires men to lasso the animals, to keep them down in the mud waiting for their turn to be branded, and to handle the branding iron. It’s all a game, really, full of hilarious situations.
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Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Colombia: Cowboys Marking Calves


Colombian cowboys marking calves inside a Llanos corral. Mud and water are two of the reasons why they always go barefoot. Much else was going on around in the corral. Like other men lassoing calves running wild. And it wasn’t easy to manage a camera on slippery ground while avoiding to be swept off my feet when caught by a moving lasso between cowboy and galloping calf.
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Monday, October 6, 2014

Colombia: Cowboys Herding Cattle To Corral


Cowboys of the Colombian Llanos, all of them riding barefoot as is their custom, are herding cows and calves to a Colombian  corral to be separated there. After the cows will have been returned to pasture the calves will be marked.

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Sunday, October 5, 2014

Colombia: Cowboys Lassoing Horses


As described in previous posts, rounding up hundreds of widely scattered cows that have been left alone fattening on the Llanos grass for several months is very hard on horses. So much so that such annual roundups see each cowboy exhaust four horses over a day. Though, as was also shown in my earlier posts, horse selection starts at dawn, it goes on long after the sun has risen. Here, cowboys are lassoing the ones they will use. More cowboys are arriving on horseback to pick their own.

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Saturday, October 4, 2014

Colombia: Cowboy Leading Horses To Corral


Horses following a cowboy to a corral in Colombia’s Llanos Orientales. Other cowboys there will select four of them each for the day’s work. In a giant round up, gathering widely scattered cattle, horses in constant gallop will need to be replaced for fresh ones as the day advances. 
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Friday, October 3, 2014

Colombia: Breaking A Horse


A barefoot Colombian cowboy breaking one of the four horses he will exhaust over a day to help other cowboys round up hundreds of cows and horses widely disseminated for months over their country’s vast Llanos grasslands. My previous post tells more on this.
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Thursday, October 2, 2014

Colombia: Barefoot Cowboys Of The Orinoco Grassland


Much of the year, peace reigns over Colombia’s Llanos orientales, the vast grasslands spreading east of the Andes Mountains. Cattle and horses roam freely, left alone to enjoy themselves and reproduce. At such times, few men are needed to keep the ranch going.

But when the time comes to bring the newborn calves to the corral to mark them, large numbers of freelance cowboys get hired—many of them young daredevils. All cowboys will ride barefoot. They will come with their own hammocks to be hung under a communal roof. And during the days their work will be needed they will be up at 4 a.m. to breakfast on beef ribs and black coffee.

It’s still dark when they start selecting the four horses each of them will exhaust in mad around-the-clock gallops. They are difficult horses that were never mounted before or had not been mounted for many months. The cows are equally wild. I had to photograph them from the safety of my own horse or of a tree limb.

The picture above shows two of the poncho-clad barefoot cowboys selecting, in the sparse light of a blue rainy dawn, the four horses each will need to alternate that day to do his job.

In the next few days I will post more of those cowboys’ pictures.
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Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Colombia: Cowboys Watering Horses


Horses drinking water left behind by the last rainy season in Colombia’s Llanos Orientales, the vast Orinoco Basin's grassland spreading east of the Andes Mountains. Surrounding cowboys are herding them to a corral to ready them for a cattle roundup.
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Monday, September 29, 2014

Bad Situations Can Breed Good Ones


A vaquero, or cowboy, participating in a cattle roundup in Colombia’s LlanosOrientales, the vast grasslands spreading East of the Andes Mountains.


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There is a saying in Colombia, which is that good things can come from bad ones. It’s often true. And It’s happened to me.

By 1985, living in Colombia, my wife’s country, as a freelance documentary photographer and writer, I had seen my income shrink worryingly. So much so that I considered emigrating back to the United States, where I had lived previously for 12 years. But I found it hard to throw the towel. Instead I self-published a photo book on the region I lived in, the Cauca Valley, and it was an instant best-seller. At least by Colombian standards. This pushed me to self-publish eight more books on Colombia, one a year, all of which sold well.
http://victorenglebert.photoshelter.com/gallery/My-Photo-Books/G0000dR9HYikKM1E/

In 1995, as I was ready to go to press with a new photo book, on Ecuador this time, that country got involved in a war with Peru, its economy collapsed, and book sales ended overnight, leaving me with material that had cost me dearly and would never see publication. Coincidentally, Colombia was going through financial and insecurity hell. And book stores there stopped paying me for the few books they were still selling.

Not only that, but kidnapping for ransom had become a very real threat, for myself and for my family, and many Colombians left the country for safer ones. I could no longer travel safely around Colombia. Worst of all, the color slides I mailed to American publishers in response to requests had stopped getting back to me and I was losing hundreds of my best pictures.

The reason was that the drug mafia had started using registered mail to send huge amounts of hundred dollar bills back from the U.S.  Registered mail had been the way my color slides had traveled between Colombia, the U.S., and the world. After some post office employees discovered dollars in the mail, the word went around and registered mail from the U.S. stopped being delivered. It was opened at the post offices and then thrown away—without the dollars but with my color slides.

Even if that had not happened, something else had started making my work impossible in Colombia. The last few packages that had still been returned to me came back with most of the color slides perforated. Attempting to stop the flow of cocaine, American or Colombian authorities must have passed needles through the packages to check if any white powder would stream out.

Emigration was again on the table, and this time it was impossible to avoid, even though my wife, Martha, and our two teenage sons rebelled against the idea of abandoning what had been an idyllic life. I hated the idea too, for I had been very happy there myself. And I had already lived in several countries—Belgium, where I was born and raised; Germany; the former Belgian Congo, Canada, and the U.S. But our sons, 18 and 19, spent their weekends out late at night when streets were most dangerous. If anything happened to them I would have to blame myself for it. I could not stand the thought of it. Anyway, how would I maintain our way of life without an income?

Once again, however, everything turned better after arriving in the U.S.. Jean-Pierre and Philippe went to university in Philadelphia and ended up with jobs and incomes they could not have dreamed of, had  they graduated in Colombia. And I got back in business, traveling the world again, not just Latin America. Poor Martha was the great loser. She lost her domestic help and her many friends. But like our sons, and for the sake of them, she ended up accepting the wisdom of our move.




Sunday, September 28, 2014

Ethiopia: A Back Alley Of Harar


A mysterious woman in a mysterious back alley is carrying lunch and tea to a mysterious person behind a blue door. I caught the scene in Ethiopia’s Harar, Islam’s fourth holy city and a UNESCO World Heritage.
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