Wednesday, June 5, 2013

An Unforgettable Bus Ride



 How I Risked Cutting a Journey Short for the Sake of a Photograph

The divine act behind that photograph

     In 1971, I spent seven months traveling around Latin America, from Mexico
to Argentina and Brazil. At some point, pressed among a crowd of Indians at
the back of a dilapidated bus, my itinerary was taking me from Ayacucho to
Cuzco, in the Peruvian Andes, an endless two-day ride. Holes and stones in the dirt road shook
the bus in a cloud of dust, and a pot flew off the roof.  The driver stopped, and
a passenger ran to pick up the pot.
      I looked at it as God’s mercy. Less than a minute earlier, I had caught sight, sitting along the road by herself, one of the cutest little girls I had ever seen anywhere, and could have cried with frustration for being unable to get a picture of her. After all, I was a photographer. The bus’ central aisle was crowded with Indians sitting on bundles, but I scrambled over them toward the door, just as the passenger was
 returning with the pot.
     “Adonde estas corriendo?” the driver shouted.  “Where are you running?” 
   “To urinate,” I lied, almost unconsciously.
And I ran with a Leica in hand. By then the little girl was already far behind.
     “This is not the moment!” the driver yelled.
     “But what the devil are you doing? Come back!
     “…All right. Stay here and wait for tomorrow’s bus.”
And having said that, he pulled off.
     My luggage and most of my film were on that bus, but I refused to worry
about that just then. First, I had to get that picture. I gave the little girl an avocado pear I was carrying in my camera bag and quickly shot three pictures of her. Then I ran back. The bus was very far now, though not going very fast, and I was a runner. Even so, my heart was in my mouth by the time I got back on board.
     The passengers applauded me and the driver shrank in his seat. I stared at him not knowing how to deal with him. But I decided to leave the matter there, and I returned to my seat. I was more angry with myself than with him, as it had just occurred to me that for a small tip he would have given me all the time I needed. How had I not thought about it? That lesson would serve me well on future occasions.
     My picture of the little girl was soon seen around the world, everywhere melting the hearts of women. To this day they keep ordering prints of it. That journey netted me much more than a best-selling picture. Earlier, passing through Colombia, I had met the girl who would become my wife.

Below are the three pictures I managed to get::


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Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Colombia: Shopping Cowboys


Colombia. Sutamarchan (Boyaca). Grocery shop. Old political posters. Cowboys.

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Colombie. Sutamarchan (Boyaca). Epicerie. Vieilles affiches de politiciens.
Cowboys.

Brazil: Death In The Amazon


One early morning, as daylight was only just squeezing in, a mad racket awoke me in an Amazon rain forest hamlet on Brazil's Rio Preto. I thought we were being attacked and I pulled out of my hammock to rush outside and see what was happening. Drunken young men, liquor bottles in hands, were crying and screaming in violent pain. Others lay on the ground, having drunk themselves unconscious. It took me some time to make sense of this, but I learned eventually that a young woman had died during the night.
     For many months she had suffered unspeakable pain from an abnormal pregnancy. She might have been helped at a small health center on the Rio Negro upriver, two hours away by motorboat. But no one had volunteered to pay for the gas. Now they were all stunned. She, at least, was relieved from hell on earth.
     Soon some men started hammering planks together into a rough coffin. The young woman would be buried that very afternoon, as the climate demanded. Meanwhile her family covered her with flowers and left her eyes open, as if wishing to keep her dreamy face alive a little longer.

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L’aube d’un nouveau jour n’avait pas encore complètement éclairé la forêt de l’Amazonie  brésilienne quand un éclatement de cris de douleur me tira soudain de mon hamac dans un hameau du Rio Preto. Je crus un instant que nous étions attaqués et sortis à voir ce qui se passait. Inconsolables, de jeunes hommes, bouteilles d’alcool à la main, se roulaient à terre. D’autres, ivres, y gisaient inconscients. J’appris éventuellement qu’une jeune femme était morte durant la nuit.
     Pendant de nombreux mois elle avait souffert de douleurs insupportables que lui causait une grossesse anormale.
Elle aurait pu trouver de l’aide à un poste de santé sur le Rio Negro, deux heures de bateau à moteur en amont, mais personne n’avait offert de payer l’essence nécessaire. Maintenant l’étonnement abattait le hameau. La mort avait au moins délivre la pauvre jeune femme de l’enfer.
     Bientôt des coups de marteaux m’apprirent que des hommes étaient au déjà travail fabriquant un cercueil rustique. La jeune fille serait enterrée l’après-midi même, comme le voulait le climat. Entretemps la famille la couvrait de fleurs et lui laissait les yeux ouverts, comme pour conserver un peu plus longtemps un air de vie a son visage rêveur.




Sunday, June 2, 2013

Brazil: Yanomami Woman Painting Husband


Brazil. Amazon rain forest. A Yanomami woman is painting her husband with urucu, soft seeds she has pressed into a elongated ball.

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Brésil. Amazonie. Femme Yanomami peignant son mari avec de l’urucu,  graines pâteuses qu’elle a pressées en une boule oblongue.

Friday, May 31, 2013

Brazil: Yanomami Indians Entertaining A Guest


Brazil. Amazon rain forest. Yanomami Indians entertain a visitor (right), who has come in the name of his clan to invite them to a plantain soup drinking party.

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Brésil. Amazonie. Indiens yanomamis entretenant un visiteur (à droite) venu inviter leur clan a partager une soupe de bananes plantain.

Thursday, May 30, 2013

Colombia: Village Street Corner


Colombia. La Cumbre (Cauca Valley). Farmer loading his horse with purchases he made at the small town's corner shop.

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Colombie. La Cumbre (Valle del Cauca). Fermier chargeant son cheval des petites marchandises qu’il  achetées au magasin d’un coin du village.

Colombia: Sunrise Over Barichara


Colombia. Sunrise over Barichara, a small Santander town

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Colombie. Lever du soleil sur Barichara, une petite ville de Santander.

Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Morocco: An Ait Morhrad Berber's Shining Smile


Morocco. High Atlas Mountains. Ait Morhrad Berber.

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Maroc. Haut Atlas. Berbère Ait Morhrad aux dents d’or.

Morocco: Using Feet To Wash Clothes


Morocco (1967). High Atlas Mountains. To prepare for the next day's Feast of the Sheep, which celebrates Abraham's Sacrifice, Ait Hadidu Berbers wash their burnooses by stamping on them. Though they would not help their wives carry firewood, they willingly wash their own clothes too.

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Maroc (1967). Haut Atlas. En préparation de la fête du mouton, qui célèbre le sacrifice d’Abraham et aura lieu le jour suivant, ces Berbères Ait Haddidou lavent leurs burnous en les piétinant. Quoiqu’ils n’aident pas leurs femmes à porter le bois de chauffage, ils lavent volontiers leurs robes.  


Monday, May 27, 2013

Borneo: Dyak Man Portrait


Indonesia. Kalimantan. Central Borneo rain forest. Dyak man.

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Indonésie. Kalimantan. Forêt de Bornéo. Dayak .

Saturday, May 25, 2013

Borneo: Dyak Bringing Home The Meat


Indonesia. Borneo rain forest. Dyak man carrying sections of a python he killed.

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Indonésie. Forêt de Bornéo. Dayak transportant deux sections d’un python qu’il a tué.


Friday, May 24, 2013


Indonesia. Borneo rain forest. Dyak man playing a string instrument.

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Indonésie. Forêt de Bornéo. Homme Dayak jouant d’un instrument à cordes.


Colombia : New Day Facing A Cowboy



Colombia. Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Pueblo Bello. Cowboy pulling his horse out of an inn where they spent the night,

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Colombie. Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Pueblo Bello. Cowboy abandonnant l’auberge où lui et son cheval passèrent la nuit.

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Kenya: Preparing For A Samburu Dance




Kenya. Mathews (Ldoinyolenkiyo) Range. Samburu moran designing a dress fit for the dance he will participate in later.

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Kenya. Chaîne Ldoinyolenkiyo. Jeune guerrier Samburu confectionnant un habit qui l’aidera à briller dans la danse à laquelle il participera plus tard.

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Ecuador : Herding Animals To Pasture



Ecuador. Andes Mountains near Riobamba. Family on their way to work in the field, with hoes on the back of an donkey, and to bring their animals to pasture.

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Equateur. Près de Riobamba. Famille en route pour travailler sa terre et laisser ses animaux au pâturage. Un âne transporte ses houes.  

Monday, May 20, 2013

Madagascar Coquette



Madagascar. Fenoarivo (near Toamasina).

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 Madagascar. Fenoarivo (près de Toamasina).

Sunday, May 19, 2013

Ethiopia: Danakil Bashfulness



Ethiopia. Great Rift Valley. Danakil Depression. Danakil (Afar) nomad woman.

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Ethiopie. Grande faille d’Afrique. Dépression Danakil. Femme Danakil (Afar).

Borneo: Gold-Capped Teeth And Elongated Ears



Indonesia. Borneo rain forest. Dyak woman with gold-capped teeth. Vanity in Borneo had a price. This lady was admired for the weight of her earrings, but would have been ridiculed if a broken earlobe had spilled them on the ground.

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Indonésie. Bornéo. Femme Dayak aux dents dorées. Dans sa forêt, la vanité avait un prix. Le poids des anneaux de ses oreilles était très admiré. Mais elle aurait été ridiculisée si l’un de ses lobes avait cédé et laissé les anneaux rouler à terre. 

Friday, May 17, 2013

Thursday, May 16, 2013

Ethiopia: Young Danakil Shepherd



Ethiopia.Danakil Depression. Danakil (Afar) nomad boy.

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Ethiopie. Dépression Danakil. Petit berger Danakil (Afar)



Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Sunday, May 12, 2013

Colombia: Little Cuna Doll



Colombia. Choco rain forest. Gulf of Uraba. Little Cuna girl posing outside her family hut. Her dress is made of a mola, her necklaces of animal teeth.

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Colombie.  Forêt du Choco. Golfe d’Uraba. Petite indienne cuna. Sa robe est faite d’une mola, son collier de dents d’animaux sauvages.

Friday, May 10, 2013

Ecuador: Farmers Eating Lunch On Sidewalk



Ecuador. Andes Mountains. Guano. Farmers eating lunch purchased at a market on the plaza across from them.

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Equateur. Montagnes des Andes. Guano. Couple de fermiers en visite au marché ou ils ont acheté leur repas de midi.

Thursday, May 9, 2013

Ecuador : Chimborazo Volcano Looming Above Cowboy And His Cattle Herd



Ecuador. Andes Mountains. Snowcapped Chimborazo Volcano. Indian cowboy herds bulls being raised for Quito's bullfighting ring.

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Equateur. Montagnes des Andes. Volcan Chimborazo. Berger indien gardant des taureaux élevés pour l’arène de Quito.

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Honduras: Card Game



Honduras. Roatan Iisland. West End Town. Playing cards.

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Honduras. Ile de Roatan. West End Town. Jeux de cartes.



Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Another Beautiful Polynesian



French Polynesia. Marquesas Archipelago. Hiva Oa Island.

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Polynésie française. Archipel des Marquises. Ile de Hiva Oa.

Monday, May 6, 2013

Beautiful Polynesian



Marquesas Archipelago. Nuku Hiva Island. Threading flowers into garlands.

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Polynésie française. Archipel des Marquises. Ile de  Nuku Hiva. Enfilant des fleurs pour en faire des guirlandes